Milan Women Fashion Week Spring Summer 2014
1970/1
Milan date-tagged that late-60s-early on-70s thing that has been floating around fashion for a while, with war machine precision, to 1970 and 1971. MaxMara namechecked the classic Italian film Garden of the Finzi-Continis (lxx) and the label's own Angelica Huston ads (71) while the laser-sharp vision of the Gucci show surely sealed the deal on this trend. It's more than womanly than the 1960s jumping-bean kooky-chick, but more purposeful than afterwards in the 1970s when things got woozy and nifty. Lots of denim and suede, A-line skirts or flare beneath loftier waists (see: Emilio Pucci), bold collars and buttons. A shoulder bag on a long strap, a chunky sandal. JCM
The boutonniere-tied waist
You know how raffia tied roughly effectually a bunch of posh flowers looks more fabulous than a neatly bow-tied ribbon does? Well, that'south your belt-inspiration for adjacent season. At Sportmax, checked coats were cinched with generous bolts of fringed blackness leather, or with integral cocky-ties that belted loose dresses in the way that a sweater tied around the waist does – a look also seen at Emporio Armani. (The bouquet-tie trend began back at LFW, with Burberry). It represents an easy, organic mood that'due south less waspish than the traditional notched belt. JCM
Coats and jackets
Milan's spring/summertime collections are traditionally a flesh-fest. A calendar week-long festival of bare legs, halternecks and a strategic sprinkling of swimwear to wake up the photographers. And yet this week, coats and jackets were the stars of the prove. (Possibly, designers have cottoned on to the fact that summertime collections go on sale in late January, so are a good time to sell coats.) Prada's were the well-nigh extreme, naturally: detailed and top-stitched and buttoned upwardly from cervix to knee, merely at Bottega Veneta, Salvatore Ferragamo, Missoni and MaxMara fundamental shapes were the duster coat, the deconstructed trench and the 70s safari jacket. JCM
Normcore pilus
Every flavour there's one trend that is but bright news for the norms. For autumn, it'southward the new adequate-everywhere status of the flat shoe. For next season, it's the elevation of slightly rubbish hair to catwalk status. Catwalk up-dos and ponytails are normally of the sort that crave a accident-dry and hot-rollers, but at Prada and Sportmax the pilus was flat, ponytailed, and with the kind of wispy tendrils coming out at the front that you get after wearing a chapeau, or existence defenseless in a gust of air current getting off the bus. Now this is a trend we can all get behind. JCM
Household-name models
When it comes to models, Milan likes personality. Naomi Campbell on your catwalk is a banner signing, the fashion equivalent of Lionel Messi on a season-long loan. Peter Dundas, the designer at Pucci, had almost a football team of supermodels at his testify: Naomi was joined by Isabeli Fontana, Joan Smalls, Natasha Poly, Malaika Firth, MariaCarla Boscono and Kendall Jenner. Jenner, Kim Kardashian'due south sister, is giving this modelling lark a skilful get. She was also spotted at Dolce & Gabbana, where Linda Evangelista – another large name, of class – sat front row. LC
Culottes
Anyone already dipping their toe into culottes this summer, peak marks. They've been a niche trend for 2014 but they're crossing over into the mainstream next year, spotted at Gucci, Jil Sander and Giorgio Armani. They come in all different guises – stiff and schoolgirl-ish at Jil Sander, floaty and garden-party-ready at Armani. Wear with a camisole or crisp white shirt. The all-time bit? Yous take almost a whole year to get used to the thought. LC
Sparkle in the summer
What with minimalism and normcore, there has been a distinct lack of sparkle in manner. But Milan, the home of glamour, was always going to be the saviour of sparkly things. Run across brocade at Prada and applique at Dolce & Gabbana, where jeans were studded with brightly coloured crystals. It was Versace – obvs – where the sparkle really got going. In a collection that Donatella described every bit daywear, the second half consisted of short dresses made from panels of Swarovski crystals. Perfect for the office, and then. LC
Snazzy flats
Flats take been the front-row shoe of choice for a few seasons at present, and this fashion week Milan confirmed it is on board with the trend – providing the glamour quotient is high. Milan's flats were luxe and ornate, never scruffy. See: Emporio's polite versions of the skater shoe, Fausto Puglisi'south crystal-studded pool sliders, and bejewelled sandals embellished with intricate golden hearts at Dolce & Gabbana. The passeggiata just got a lot more than comfy. HM
Thigh-level sheer
You know that scrap right at the elevation of your thigh, which but those with the conviction of a Victoria'southward Secret model would be likely to show off? Permit's be frank: it is known, to many of us, past the securely unglamorous name of "saddlebags". Well, Milan'southward designers must like a challenge, because many of them treated this oft-hidden area as an erogenous zone. Versace and Roberto Cavalli, for example, showed dresses and skirts with sheer panels correct at the pinnacle of the thigh, while Dolce & Gabbana veiled theirs under lace. Non something we will be trying in existent life, but information technology looked quite Ibiza in situ. HM
Dolls
In every one of his Moschino collections, Jeremy Scott has zeroed in on an aspect of depression-brow culture – outset, fast nutrient, and then counterfeit designer goods. And this season? Barbie – on sweatshirts, gaudy phone cases (which were inspired past Barbie'southward hand-held mirrors) and lots and lots of bubblegum pinkish, also seen at Versace. Dolce & Gabbana sent "ironic" dolls down the catwalk, too, in Perspex boxes held by models, although theirs wore all-blackness classic Dolce outfits: tailored skirt suits, widow'south veils and crucifixes (think a 6in version of Madonna in the fall/winter 2011 adverts and y'all're there). HM
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